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Building a PC step by step

A complete walkthrough from unboxing to first boot. Order matters — the sequence here saves a lot of backtracking.

8 min readBeginner115 minUpdated August 1, 2026
  1. Step 1 of 10

    Preparing your workspace

    15 minTools needed: PH2 Phillips screwdriver, Cable ties, A torch or desk lamp

    You need a flat surface larger than the case, good light and a single PH2 Phillips screwdriver. That covers roughly 95 per cent of the screws in a typical build.

    Unbox everything and check nothing is missing before you screw anything down. A missing GPU power cable or a missing NVMe screw is particularly easy to overlook.

    On static electricity: the risk is real but frequently overstated. Touching a bare metal part of the case before picking up a component, and not building on carpet in a wool jumper, is enough. An anti-static strap is useful but not mandatory.

  2. Step 2 of 10

    Installing the CPU

    10 min

    Do this with the motherboard outside the case, resting on the box it came in. The foam insert supports the board evenly and you have access to the socket from every side — both of which disappear once the board is screwed into the case.

    Lift the socket lever: press it down slightly, move it sideways out from under its retaining tab, and only then raise it upright. On Intel boards a metal load plate lifts with the lever, and the plastic cover either falls out on its own or is pushed out as you close it — do not pull it out by hand, and keep it, because a warranty return often requires it.

    Orientation: one corner of the CPU carries a small etched triangle, and a matching one is on the corner of the socket or its frame. They must line up. It is the only marker worth trusting — the printing on the CPU lid is sometimes rotated relative to the socket and misleads.

    A platform difference worth knowing: on AMD AM4 the delicate pins are on the underside of the CPU, so bending them in a drop usually ends that processor. On AMD AM5 and every Intel socket the pins moved into the socket — now the board is the fragile part, and a CPU dropped onto it can bend dozens of contacts at once. Either way the rule is the same: hold the CPU by its edges and lower it straight down.

    Hold the CPU flat above the socket and lower it vertically. Do not slide it sideways once seated. Correctly placed it lies flat and does not rock when touched gently — if any corner stands proud, lift it out and place it again.

    Close the load plate and press the lever back under its tab. The resistance is normal and can be surprisingly firm, particularly on Intel, where the frame clamps the CPU with tens of newtons. A grinding sound while closing is usually the frame itself, not the processor. If the lever resists from the very start rather than halfway through its travel, open the socket and check the alignment.

  3. Step 3 of 10

    Installing the memory

    5 min

    This is the most commonly mistaken step in the whole build, and also the easiest to correct. The motherboard manual states the correct slots explicitly — usually A2 and B2, meaning the second and fourth counting from the CPU.

    Why those two: the processor talks to memory over two independent channels. Modules in slots 2 and 4 land one per channel, so both paths work in parallel and bandwidth doubles. Two modules in adjacent slots share a single channel, leaving the other empty and costing half the bandwidth. In games that is typically 10 to 20 per cent of the frame rate, and on integrated graphics it can be a factor of two.

    Open the clips at the ends of the slots. Some boards, particularly cheaper ones and Mini-ITX, have a clip on one side only — that is normal and not a defect. The notch in the bottom edge of the module is off-centre and fits one orientation only, so it cannot go in backwards.

    Line the notch up with the key in the slot and press down evenly at both ends at once. The force needed is noticeably more than intuition suggests — comfortably ten kilograms of pressure. Pushing one end first tilts the module and usually ends with one side seated and the other standing proud.

    The clips must snap shut on their own with an audible click. If you have to close them with a finger, the module is not fully in. Once fitted, look along the modules from the side: the gold contacts should disappear completely into the slot, evenly along their whole length. A visible strip of contacts at one end is the single most common cause of a machine that gives no display on first boot.

    Four modules instead of two is not automatically better. A memory controller loaded with four sticks often cannot hold the rated EXPO or XMP profile, forcing a drop in frequency. If you are planning 32 GB, two 16 GB modules are a safer bet than four 8 GB ones.

    Rear I/OEPS 8-pinPower deliveryCPU socket1234Memory slotsuse 2 and 4ATX 24-pinPCIe x16 — graphics cardM.2 (NVMe)PCIe x1SATAFront panel
    Component layout on an ATX motherboard. Top-down view of a typical ATX board. Top left: the 8-pin EPS connector that powers the CPU. In the centre, the CPU socket surrounded by the power delivery section and its heatsinks. To the right, four memory slots — with two modules, fit them in the second and fourth counting from the CPU. Along the right edge, the 24-pin ATX connector. Below are the PCIe slots: the long top one is wired directly to the CPU and takes the graphics card. Between the PCIe slots sit the M.2 sockets for NVMe drives. The front panel pin block is in the bottom right corner.
  4. Step 4 of 10

    Installing the NVMe drive

    5 min

    Do this now, while the board is still outside the case. Once the graphics card is in, access to the top M.2 slot is often completely blocked.

    Remove the M.2 heatsink if the board has one, and remember to peel the protective film off the thermal pad underneath. Leaving that film on is a common cause of a drive running hot.

    Slide the drive in at roughly 30 degrees, press it flat and secure it with the single small screw. Do not overtighten — it only needs to stop the drive springing back up.

  5. Step 5 of 10

    Installing the CPU cooler

    20 min

    How much paste: a pea-sized dot in the centre of the CPU lid. The cooler pressure spreads it evenly. Spreading it manually with a card is unnecessary and usually introduces air bubbles.

    The backplate mounts from behind the motherboard — another reason not to have screwed the board into the case yet. Check the manual for which mounting hardware your socket uses.

    Tighten the screws alternately and a little at a time, like wheel nuts on a car. Fully tightening one side before the other tilts the block and leaves part of the surface out of contact.

    Connect the fan to the header marked CPU_FAN. The board checks that header at startup, and many models refuse to boot if they detect no fan speed there.

  6. Step 6 of 10

    Preparing the case

    15 min

    Remove both side panels and take out everything the manufacturer packed inside — the screw box is usually in the drive cage.

    Check the standoff layout. They must match the holes in your motherboard, no more and no fewer. A standoff under a spot with no hole can short the board.

    Fit the I/O shield if your board has a separate one. It is the only part that cannot be added after the board is mounted without unscrewing it again — and the most commonly skipped step in the whole build.

    Power supplyGraphics cardCPU coolerintakeexhaustexhaustFrontRearfilterMild positive pressure: dust enters through filters
    Case airflow. Side view. Cool air enters at the front and bottom, hot air leaves at the rear and top — following the fact that warm air rises on its own. The power supply draws its own air from beneath the case and exhausts it straight outside, so it never mixes with the rest. The aim is slightly more intake than exhaust: the case then sits at mild positive pressure and dust enters through the filters rather than through every seam.
  7. Step 7 of 10

    Mounting the motherboard

    10 min

    Lower the board in at a slight angle, sliding the rear connectors into the I/O shield first and only then dropping it flat onto the standoffs.

    Fit the centre screw first so the board cannot shift, then the rest. Tighten until they stop, but do not force them — board laminate can be damaged by overtightening.

    Connect the front panel cables now: power button, reset, LED, plus the USB and audio headers. This is the fiddliest part of the build, because the pins are small and poorly labelled. The board manual has an exact diagram of that pin block.

    key++POWER LEDHDD LEDPOWER SWRESET SWLEDs: polarity mattersButtons: either way round
    Front panel pin block. The standard 9-pin arrangement. Top row, left to right: power LED positive, power LED negative, drive LED positive, drive LED negative. Bottom row: power button (two pins), reset button (two pins). LEDs are polarised — the lead with the coloured wire is positive. The buttons are not polarised, so either orientation works. The missing pin in the top right corner is the key that shows the correct orientation.
  8. Step 8 of 10

    Installing the power supply and cabling

    15 min

    Mount the PSU fan-down if the case has a vent and filter beneath it. It then draws cool air from under the case rather than warm air from inside it.

    Connect the three main cables: the 24-pin to the motherboard, the 8-pin EPS for CPU power at the top of the board, and the graphics card power. The EPS cable is the one most often forgotten, and without it the machine will not start at all.

    For cards using the 12V-2x6 connector, push the plug in firmly until it clicks and check that it is fully seated across its whole width. A partially seated plug in this standard can overheat.

  9. Step 9 of 10

    Installing the graphics card

    10 min

    The card goes in the top PCIe slot — the one closest to the CPU. It is the only slot wired directly to the processor with the full number of lanes.

    Remove the right number of blanking plates from the back of the case. Modern cards usually occupy three slots even though they have a single physical connector.

    Press the card down until the slot latch clicks. Modern cards are heavy — if yours visibly sags, consider a support bracket, particularly if the machine gets moved around.

  10. Step 10 of 10

    Checks before first power-on

    10 min

    Before closing the case, run the list: 24-pin cable, CPU EPS cable, graphics card power, CPU fan in the CPU_FAN header, memory in slots 2 and 4, every latch closed.

    Check that no cable sits in the path of a fan blade. That is the most common cause of a loud ticking noise on first start.

    Leave the side panels off for now. If something needs correcting, you will have access without taking the case apart again.

Community opinions

  • I was terrified I would fry something. It turned out everything only fits one way and you simply cannot get it wrong. What took me longest were those tiny front panel cables.

    anna.builds · r/buildapc

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